Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.